The term ‘Serti’ dial comes from the French word
The term ‘Serti’ dial comes from the French word ‘Sertir’ which means ‘to set’.
When Rolex use the term ‘Serti’ dial they could be referring to any gem set dial, but amongst Rolex dealers and collectors we generally us the term ‘Serti’ dial when talking about the diamond dial found in the Rolex Submariner & GMT.
Gem-setting is serious business at Rolex. In fact, the Swiss watchmaking giant has its own gem-setting department that not only boasts expert master jewelers to decorate the watches but also a branch of experts in charge of selecting and sourcing the finest diamonds and other gemstones destined for Rolex watches.
The most common model we seem to see the Serti dial is in the pre-ceramic Submariner steel & gold or full yellow gold.
Rolex did produce the Serti dial in the ceramic Submariner for a while also, but these seem even less common.
You’ll find in the pre-ceramic Submariners the standard date window at 3, diamond set markers & 3x sapphire markers. On the ceramic Submariner you’ll see the standard date window at 3, diamond set markers but just standard index markers at 12, 6 & 9 rather than sapphires.
Serti dials found on the Rolex GMT generallly have the diamond markers along with ruby markers at 12, 6 & 9
Serti dials found on Rolex Yacht-Masters are usually found with Mother of pearl as well as the gem set markers. We’ve come across either mother of pearl dials on the Yacht-Master with diamond and sapphire markers or mother of pearl dials with all ruby index’s.
So although technically speaking when Rolex mention Serti dial, they are referring to any gem set dial, collectors and sellers of Rolex would probably be speaking about diamond set dial Submariners, GMTs & Yacht-Masters
The Serti dial is something a bit different, and since they are no longer really found on these models we think they are quite collectible